September 12

Anniversary of the Battle of Vienna
Feast of the Holy Name of Mary
 

   
 

Polish Winged Hussars pass in review before King Sobieski
after the defeat of the Turks in the Battle of Vienna by Wojciech Kossak

 

The Turks had threatened to take over Europe on several occasions and in 1786 the final battle line had been set outside of Budapest. The Turks ingeniously attempted to tunnel under the city walls and surprise the Christian army defending the city. The scheme might have worked except for the alertness of the Hungarian bakers.

The bakers began work at about 2:00 AM when the city was normally very quiet. They heard the noise made by the Turkish sappars excavating under the city and warned John Sobieski, the Polish King who led the Christian army. This warning provided a successful surprise counterattack which decimated the Turkish troops and permanently eliminated the Turkish threat to Christian Europe. The victory was commemorated by Pope Innocent XI by setting September 12 aside as a feastday honoring the Holy Name of Mary who was the patroness of the Christian army.

Bakers had a penchant for commemorating this important victory against the Turks The Viennese bakers created two culinary tributes  representing the crescent on the Turkish flag.  The first was a crescent-shaped variant of puff pastry that was later taken to France by the Austrian Princess, Marie Antoinette (October 16), and was refined into the croissant (in French, croissants are often referred as Viennoiserie). They also creating the kipfel, a crescent-shaped cookie filled with nuts and raisins that my grandmother used to make for holidays and birthdays. 

Sobieski was worshipped as a living saint in Poland and the crowds would run up to him as he passed through the crowds on horseback. They reached out to touch his stirrups and crossed themselves as if privileged to touch the relic of the true cross. Not to be outdone by the Austrian bakers, a Polish bakers also commemorated the victory with a roll in the shape of Sobieski's stirrup. The Polish word for stirrup is beugel and this was the birth of the bagel, a roll created to celebrate a Christian victory.


At press time,  there is a planned film for 2008 about Battle of Vienna and discussions with Mel Gibson as the potential director and starring as Jan Sobieski.

Because the feast of the Holy Name of Mary is also interrelated with the victory over the Turks, there is  a legend of how Mary invented a process of cooking in which one vessel containing food was placed in another vessel containing water which was then heated. The vessel containing the heated water was called a bainmarie (literally, a "Mary bath") and has been used as a cooking process for at least two thousand years. The recipe for Potage à la vierge (Virgin Mary's soup) was so named because of its whiteness, representing purity, and its method of preparation in a  A double boiler is one form of cooking in a bainmarie (also called a bain-marie).
 

Croissants
 


Ingredients
 
3 TB flour
3 sticks butter  softened at room temperature
4 cups all-purpose flour, approximately
2 tsp salt
2 Tbsp sugar
2 packages dry yeast
 
1/4 cup warm water
1&1/2 cups milk, warmed to 80° F to 90° F
1/2 cup half-and-half cream, warmed
1 egg
1 TB water

 
Instructions
  1. Sprinkle 3 TB flour over butter and blend together on the work surface.
  2. On a length of foil, fashion a 6" square of soft butter; fold over the sides of the foil to enclose. Place in the refrigerator to chill for 2 to 3 hours
  3. While the butter is chilling, prepare the dough. To mix by hand, in a large mixing or mixer bowl, blend 2 cups of the flour with salt and sugar. Dissolve yeast in warm water and add it and the warmed milk and half-and-half to the flour mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon or the flat blade of an electric mixer to thoroughly blend the dough for about 2 minutes.
  4. Stir in additional flour, 1/4 cup at a time, to make a soft but not sticky dough (it will stiffen when chilled.) Knead by hand or under a dough hook for 5 minutes to form a solid mass. If using a food processor, attach the steel blade.
  5. Place 2 cups flour in the work bowl and add the dry ingredients. Pulse to mix. Pour the 1/4 cup water, milk, and cream through the feed tube. Pulse once or twice to be certain that all dry ingredients are moistened. Add the balance of the flour, 1/2 cup at a time, turning the machine on briefly after each addition. When the mixture forms a mass and begins to clean the sides of the bowl, knead for 30 seconds. Don't overknead!
  6. This begins the process of cooling the dough and at the same time allowing it to rise. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
  7. Determine that both butter and dough are about the same temperature — 65° F is ideal. This may mean taking the butter out of the refrigerator an hour or so early to reach workable temperature. Likewise for the dough. Place the dough on a floured work surface and with the hands press it into a 10" square. Unwrap the block of butter and lay the block diagonally on the dough. Bring each point of dough into the center, overlapping the edges at least 1". Press the dough into a neat package. With a heavy rolling pin, roll the dough into a rectangle, approximately 8" x 18". This dimension is not critical.  Caution: If the butter seems to be breaking into small pieces under the dough rather than remaining solid, allow the dough/butter to warm a few minutes. But if the butter softens, becomes sticky, and oozes while making the turns, put the dough back into the refrigerator for several minutes.
  8. Fold the length of dough into thirds, as for a letter. Turn so that the open ends are at twelve and six o'clock. Roll again into a rectangle. This time, fold both ends into the middle and then close, as one would a book. The dough will now be in 4 layers. Wrap the package of dough in a cloth (an old tea towel is good) that has been soaked in cold water and wrung dry. Place the wrapped dough in the refrigerator to relax and chill for 1 or 2 hours.
  9. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place on the floured work surface. Unwrap, roll out, and fold in thirds, as for a letter. This is the final turn before it is rolled out and cut into croissants. Dampen cloth again and wrap loosely around the dough. Place the package in a plastic bag so moisture will be retained (not pulled out of the cloth). Leave in the refrigerator 4 to 6 hours or overnight.
  10. Mix together the egg and 1 Tsp of water. Have ready the egg wash, a knife or pastry cutter, and a wooden yardstick if you wish the pieces to be cut precisely otherwise, plan to cut them freehand. You may have or can borrow a French croissant cutter that cuts the dough into triangles.
  11. Sprinkle work surface with flour. Roll the dough until it is a generous 10"x38" rectangle, and, most importantly, about 1/4" thick. This is a crucial dimension, since it determines the size and texture of the croissants. Trim irregularities to make the strip uniform in width. Cut the strip lengthwise to make two 5" pieces. Mark the strip into triangles, 5" wide on the bottom. Using a yardstick as a guide, cut through the dough with a pastry or pizza cutter or knife. Separate the triangles, place them on a baking sheet, and chill for 15 to 20 minutes. Roll the dough into the traditional croissant shape, by rolling the triangle from the bottom to the point.
  12. Place the croissants on a baking sheet and allow to rise for 1 to 2 hours, in which they will double in volume.
  13. Preheat the oven to 425° F . Bake the croissants for 22 to 25 minutes. Allow them to cool on a rack before serving.

Yield: 24 to 30 croissants

 

Kipfels
 

Ingredients
 

1/4 cup sugar
3 cups flour
1/8 tsp salt
1/2 lb butter, softened
3 egg yolks
1 tsp grated lemon zest
1 tsp grated orange zest
 

1 pkg yeast dissolved in 3 TB warm orange juice
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 cup butter
2/3 cup ground walnuts
1/4 cup white raisins
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 egg whites
 
Instructions
 
  1. Mix flour, sugar and salt. Blend in butter thoroughly. Add egg yolks, zest, yeast, and cream. Stir to make a Smooth, soft and sticky dough.
  2. Place dough in a buttered bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or at least 6 hours.
  3. When dough is chilled, beat egg whites until stiff. Mix butter, nuts, raisins, and vanilla thoroughly.
  4. Fold still egg whites into separate dough into 5 balls. Keep remaining balls refrigerated.
  5. Take 1 ball and roll it out on a sugared breadboard into a 10" circle. Brush with melted butter and spread with 1/12th of filling.
  6. Cut into 8 tri­angles and roll each triangle from the outside to the center of the circle ) and form a crescent. Repeat with balance of balls.
  7. Preheat oven to 350º F.
  8. Place cookies on foil-lined cookie sheets and bake for about 20 minutes, or until light brown.

Makes 40 cookies
 

Bagels
 

Ingredients
 
4 TB oil
2 TB sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup hot water
2 TB instant mashed potatoes
1 pkg dried yeast
 
1 egg
3 cups flour
plus extra flour for breadboard
4 quarts boiling water
butter for greasing cookie sheets

 
Instructions
 
  1. Mix oil, sugar, salt, instant mashed potatoes with warm water. When mixture becomes lukewarm, add yeast. After 5 minutes, stir thoroughly.
  2. Beat egg, add it to yeast mixture and then add flour. Kneed dough for about five minutes and shape into doughnuts. Place on floured bread­board and cover with a towel.
  3. When bagels begin to rise (after 1/2 hour) drop them one at a tine into boiling water and cook than until they rise to the top.
  4. Preheat oven to 450º F
  5. Place bagels on greased cookie sheets and bake for 25 minutes or until golden

Makes 24 to 30 bagels.
 

Potage à la vierge
 
(Virgin Mary's Soup)

Special Equipment

Double boiler
 
Ingredients
 
6 eggs
6 cups chicken
stock
1/2 cup dried fresh white bread crumbs
2 poached chicken breasts, skinned, and boned
16 blanched almonds pealed
3/4 cup whipping cream
salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
6 slices of stale white bread (without crusts) cut into
   2-inch squares
 
 
Instructions
 
  1. Boil eggs for 9 minutes. Place under running cold water to cool. Removes hells and whites, retaining only the yolks.
  2. Place bread crumbs and 1&1/2 cups bouillon in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
  3. In a food processor, puree chicken breasts, almonds, egg-yolks, and stock containing bread crumbs. Add 1/2 cup cream, salt and pepper. Place puree in the top of a heated double boiler to keep warn. Do not let boiling water touch bottom of upper part of boiler
  4. Heat remaining stock over low heat for 15 minutes. After first 5 minutes, add bread squares to stock.
  5. While stock is heating, whip 1/4 cup whipping cream for garnish.
  6. Remove stock/bread mixture from heat. Whisk in puree. Garnish with whipped cream and serve immediately.

Serves 6