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May 16
St. Honoré's Feastday
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There are two French saints
named
St. Honoré.
One
was
St. Honoré of
Arles who established the famous monastery of Lerins. However,
the St. Honoré
(also called
St. Honoratus) celebrated by the
Gâteau
St. Honoré
and
after whom Paris's
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
and Rue St. Honoré
were named, was a sixth century bishop of Amiens.
HSt. Honoré of Amiens is the patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs ,If
anyone needed a
patron saint in the Middle Ages, it was the bakers.
As
Phyllis Magida points
out in Eating, Drinking, and
Thinking,
bakers suffered "bakers' asthma" from inhaling flour dust, "bakers' knee"
from nearly eighteen hours-a-day bending and lifting, and "bakers' eczema"
- an infectious skin disease caused by the clogging
of their skin pores
by
the flour. Bakers
who were convicted of short-changing customers or using bad grain were
subject to the "bakers' gallows, a terrible contraption
by
which the baker was hoisted in a basket and
dropped 40 feet into a pool of mud usually resulting in multiple fractures.
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St. Honoré |
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In 1202,
a baker named Renold Theriens donated to the city of Paris some land to
build a chapel in honor of the saint. The chapel became one of the
richest in Paris, and gave its name to Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
The famous
Gâteau
St. Honoré is a traditional first communion pastry
and a popular
birthday cake
when candles are inserted in the tiny cream puffs that surround the pastry.
It is a
unique pastry construction because it
combines two types of dough. The circular base is traditionally made fran a flavored shortcrust pastry and the circular crown is made fran
chou
pastry. It was supposed to have
been created in 1846 by the pastry chef Chiboust, in honor of the saint and
also because his own shop was on Rue St. Honoré in Paris.
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Gâteau
St. Honoré
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Gâteau
St. Honoré is the ultimate gestalt dessert
(although the French might be offended by the use of a German
term to describe this fantastic dessert). The whole is definitely
greater than the sum of its parts. This recipe may look difficult at
first glance, but it is fairly easy to make, especially if you have ever
made cream puffs and/or otherwise worked with a pastry bag. It just a
matter of assembly after the components are made, Many
contemporary chefs add strawberries and /or chocolate to this classic,
but this recipe if for the unadorned (but adored) version.
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Shortcrust Pastry Ingredients
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Pastry Cream Ingredients
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1 TB
grated orange zest
1 3/4 cups plain flour
22 TB chilled butter, chopped
1 egg yolk, lightly whisked
2 tsp iced water
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1/8 teaspoon salt
2 cups scalded milk
4 egg whites
3/4 cup superfine sugar
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
4 egg yolks
3 TB Grand Marnier,
Amaretto,
rum, or brandy
1 TB
unflavored gelatin (added just before assembly)
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Choux (Cream Puff ) Pastry
Ingredients
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Sugar Syrup Ingredients
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1 cup water
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
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3/4 cup superfine
sugar
1/4 cup water
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Shortcrust Pastry Instructions
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- Place the flour and butter in the bowl of
a food processor and process until it resembles fine breadcrumbs.
- Add the egg yolk and water and process
until the dough just starts to come together.
- Turn the dough onto a lightly floured
surface and knead lightly until smooth. Shape into a disc and place in the
fridge for 30 minutes to rest.
Pastry Cream
Instructions
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- Combine egg yolks, sugar,
and salt in heavy saucepan. Beat until mixture is pale yellow and
smooth. Add flour. Stir until well blended. Add milk. Boil over medium
heat, stir constantly. Simmer few seconds, and remove from heat.
- Add vanilla and Grand Marnier,
Amaretto,
rum, or brandy. Allow to cool.
- Beat egg whites until stiff. Fold into yolk mixture.
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Choux Pastry Instructions
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- Combine water, butter, and
salt in heavy saucepan. Heat until butter is melted. Add flour.
Stir until mixture forms a ball and follows your spoon. Add eggs, one at a
time. Beat well.
- Spoon into pastry bag without tip.
- Heat oven to 400º F.
- Remove shortcrust pastry circle from refrigerator. Press
choux paste onto edge of pastry
circle to form 1-inch wide rim. Press remaining paste into 16 to
18 small cream puffs on same cookie sheet.
Bake the circle and puffs 15 minutes.
- Reduce heat to 375º F. Bake 15
to 20 minutes until puffed and golden.
- Remove from oven and. place on rack to
cool. Prick puffs to allow steam to escape.
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- When puffs are cooled, put 1&1/2 cups of
pastry cream in pastry bag
fitted with a small tube. Make a small slit in the bottom of puffs. Gently
force pastry cream into puffs.
- Combine water and sugar in a pan and cook over high heat to form a sugar
syrup. When syrup begins to caramelize, dip filled puff about 1/3 into syrup
and then place puff on top of puffed choux pastry ring. Repeat procedure
until a complete circle of puffs are fixed to ring.
- Warm pastry cream in a double boiler over
warm water until warm.
- Dissolve gelatin into 2 TB cold water and add to warmed pastry
cream. Mix well and remove from heat and allow to
cool.
- Beat egg whites with 1/4 cup sugar until stiff. Fold egg whites into cooled
pastry cream. Fill center of tart with cream mixture.
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